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Can you Raise Backyard Chickens in 100+ degree heat...... YES!!!!

Aug 13
5 min read



1) First: check Phoenix/Maricopa rules

  • Chicken rules vary by city/HOA and sometimes by lot size. Before you buy anything:

  • Confirm whether you need a permit or have restrictions on odor/noise

(If you tell me your neighborhood/city—Phoenix proper vs. an unincorporated area—I can help you figure out what to look for.)


2) Heat is your #1 challenge (Phoenix summers)

Aim for: airflow + shade + reliable cooling

In this coop - it is placed under a tree and on the far back side by the brick wall it has a tinted cover along with a misting system.
In this coop - it is placed under a tree and on the far back side by the brick wall it has a tinted cover along with a misting system.
  • Shade: Put the coop run so most of the day gets shade (morning vs afternoon shade patterns matter in AZ).

  • Ventilation: Use cross-ventilation (high openings on both sides). Avoid “sealed” coops.

    • As you can see above this coop is mostly all open air - except the coop inwhich they roost at night and have thier nesting boxes. this allows for perfect airflow especially in the phoenix summer heat.

  • Never rely on a small water bottle as the only plan—your birds need constant access to cool water.

  • Avoid overheating: Watch for panting + lethargy. In extreme heat, action matters fast.

Cooling methods that usually work well

  • Mist/fan system (if you can supervise): A small fan + mister can help, but don’t create constant wet bedding.

    • Our run area has a msiting system that comes on everyday - 1pm - 4pm ( the hottest part of the day )

  • You can see the misting tubing running from above the back door and along the brick wall - this is tied into a hose bib outside the run and on a battery operated timer.
    You can see the misting tubing running from above the back door and along the brick wall - this is tied into a hose bib outside the run and on a battery operated timer.

  • Frozen water bottles / ice packs in waterers (swap often).

  • Hydration + electrolytes: Many people add electrolytes during heat waves (follow product directions).

  • Schedule handling: Don’t stress them during peak heat—minimal handling midday.

3) Coop design (must-haves in a hot climate)

You want two priorities: predator-proofing and heat management.

Coop checklist

  • Predator protection: Hardware cloth (not chicken wire) on openings.

    • As you can see from the picture above - our coop and run area is all inclosed in hardware cloth - not chicken wire . The hardware cloth has a smaller opening and harder to get into - in the event we were to have any predators. Luckly in the urban area we are in there are not many we have to be concerned with . We do however have hawks and owls that could be a concern.

  • Secure latches: Raccoons and other predators can be persistent.

  • Roosting area: Clean, dry roosts; remove droppings regularly.

  • We have a double door on our roosting area - this allows for easy cleaning . Also when we built this roosting area we lined it with cheap peel and stick flooring from a big box store - so all the bedding slides right out for cleaning.
    We have a double door on our roosting area - this allows for easy cleaning . Also when we built this roosting area we lined it with cheap peel and stick flooring from a big box store - so all the bedding slides right out for cleaning.
  • Bedding: Use something absorbent (e.g., pine shavings). Keep it dry.

  • Access door to nesting boxes: Hens like consistency—nest boxes in the calmer/darker part of the coop.

Avoid these common mistakes

  • Poor ventilation (stuffy = heat stress)

  • Completely dark/airless coops

  • Wet bedding (hot + wet = ammonia and health issues)

  • Running waterers that tip or fail in the heat

  • We added a window on our roosting area - this stays open all summer - we will close it if we get a big rain or in the winter is it gets to cold ( not often in phoenix )
    We added a window on our roosting area - this stays open all summer - we will close it if we get a big rain or in the winter is it gets to cold ( not often in phoenix )

4) Run/enclosure: plan for both heat and predators

Phoenix has predators, especially at night.

  • Use an enclosed run or a run with hardware cloth where possible.

  • Provide dust-bath space (in a shaded area), but make sure it’s not muddy.

  • If you get hawks/doves/other birds overhead, consider overhead protection with wire.


5) Water: treat it like infrastructure

  • Use heavy-duty waterers (chickens tip lightweight ones).

  • Place water where it stays cool-ish—shade is key.

  • In summer, you’ll likely need more frequent water changes (sometimes multiple times/day).


6) Best chicken types for Phoenix heat (generally)

Hardiness matters more than fancy breeds. Many keepers do well with:

  • Heat-tolerant layers like: Leghorns, Ameraucanas/Australorps (generally sturdy), Rhode Island Reds, Sex-linksLightweight breeds often do better in intense heat than very heavy, thick-feathered types

If you tell me whether you want eggs only or also want calm “pets,” I can suggest a small starter mix.


7) Feeding basics (desert version)

  • Feed quality layer feed for laying hens (or appropriate feed for pullets/chicks).

  • Provide grit if you’re not feeding a complete crumble/pellet (often crumble/pellet doesn’t require added grit, but many keepers still provide it).

  • Fresh water + feed consistency are more important than fancy supplements.

  • In summer, reduce waste: use feeders designed to minimize spillage.


8) Health watch in hot weather

Get familiar with “heat stress” signs:

  • Heavy panting, drooping wings, unusual lethargy

  • Not eating/drinking normally

  • Sitting alone more than usual

Preventive routine:

  • Daily quick check: appetite, water intake, droppings consistency, breathing

  • Weekly: bedding condition, predator security, coop ventilation check

  • Keep a plan for “what if” during heat waves (shade + fans/misters + electrolytes as needed)

If you want, I can share a simple 5-minute daily checklist.


9) Who do you want: ?


Chicks: cheapest but most work (heating brooder, constant monitoring). Phoenix summer heat can still be manageable in brooder setup, but indoors climate control matters.Pullets (teen hens): a good balance—less brooding work, closer to laying.Adults: easiest start, but you’ll want to watch integration and health screening.

Tell me your timeline: “I want eggs by ___” and I’ll recommend the best route.

I aways recommend startimg with chicks - the addapt better to thier enviroment - grtting Pullets or Adults lends to getting someone else problem possiaby.


10) Quick starter plan (recommended)

If you’re starting now:

  1. Decide your number of hens (more hens = more coop/routine, but depends on space/heat capacity).

  2. Build/buy a coop with:

    • predator-proof hardware cloth

    • strong ventilation

    • shaded run path

  3. Set up watering + heat protection early.

  4. Choose pullets unless you truly want the brooding experience.

  5. Plan a bedding cleaning schedule so it stays dry and ammonia-free.


A few questions so I can tailor this to your yard

  1. Are you in Phoenix city limits or another area (e.g., Scottsdale/Tempe/unincorporated)?

  2. How much space do you have for a coop/run (roughly)?

  3. Do you want eggs as the main goal, or mostly friendly backyard pets?

  4. Are you thinking chicks, pullets, or adult hens?

  5. Any predator pressure (neighborhood raccoons/coyotes/hawks)?

Reply with those and I’ll suggest a practical coop/run layout and a starter breed list for Phoenix heat.


I hope this answers some questions for your and inspires you to add back yard chcikens to your garden. Our mission is to help and encourage ithers to grow thier OWN food even in an urban area - you dont have to have land to become self sufficentg! We are so appriciative of your support - please follow and share our content it helps us grow and execute our mission :


Our Mission

At Greenbriar Urban Gardens, our mission is to cultivate a greener, healthier, and more sustainable community by reconnecting people with the food they eat and the land where it begins.

As certified Master Gardeners, we share decades of knowledge in sustainable gardening, plant care, soil health, and urban food production. Through education, hands-on learning, and consultation, we empower individuals and families to grow nutritious food, care for the environment, and embrace a more self-sufficient way of living.

We believe a garden is more than a place where food is grown—it is a place where knowledge is shared, relationships are built, and communities grow. From raised beds and no-till gardens to backyard chickens, orchards, and other sustainable practices, we demonstrate practical ways to create productive green spaces—even in challenging urban environments.

Our goal is simple: to help people grow their own food, understand where it comes from, and create healthier communities—one garden, one seed, and one lesson at a time.

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